The most tannic and closed of Vine Cliff’s magnificent array of ’07 Cabernets. It’s hard, with a bite of acidity, but it doesn’t take much for the richness to explode. Blackberries, black currants, dark chocolate, butterscotch, sweet cinnamon spice, the list goes on and on. So rich and decadent, you can enjoy it now, but it will gather momentum over the next 6–8 years. ——S.H.(12/15/2010)—— 95