Zilliken 2010 年份的這款 Riesling trocken 所采用的葡萄產(chǎn)自 Auslese 地區(qū)，一直到了十月底才進(jìn)行采摘，所以糖分比較高。該酒帶有蒸餾櫻桃酒、新鮮檸檬和干藥草的味道，質(zhì)地柔順，濃郁度高，風(fēng)味中帶有濕板巖的味道，酸味激爽，清脆提神。入口后酒精暖暖的感覺開始緩慢浮現(xiàn)，此時(shí)淡淡的桃子和筍瓜的味道讓口感更加豐富有趣。該酒為干型，酒精度在 12% 以下，酸味十足，這款酒在濃郁度和口感上能夠如此的誘人真的令人難以置信。這款酒的優(yōu)良品質(zhì)至少可以保持 10 年，但是估計(jì)沒有多少人愿意等這么久，即使真的有，估計(jì)數(shù)量也極少。

Classic lime and cherry along with a greenhouse-like sensation of diverse foliage emanate from the glass of Zilliken’s generic 2007 Riesling trocken, which I tasted in its liter-sized, screw-cap bottling. Citrus and pit fruits with subtle bitterness of their pits as well as an underlying impression of wet stone make for a palpably dense yet lively and buoyant palate impression and a satisfying finishing cling. This should remain delightful for at least the next 3-4 years, not that it is intended for cellaring. It might seem hard to believe that Hanno Zilliken could once again out-performed a vintage in the way that he did 2005 and 2006. But his having designated an unprecedented four different wines of the 2007 vintage as auction offerings certainly speaks to his confidence – well-founded, I would say – in the quality of this collection’s top end. The vintage’s “Riesling Butterfly” – stemming largely from Saarburg’s Antoniousbrunnen and Bergschlosschen vineyards (behind the Rausch, and overlooking a tiny Saar tributary) and in only small measure from the Rausch and Bockstein – was reviewed in issue 184 and remains lovely, if at present less generous than there-described. No off-dry generic estate Riesling was bottled this vintage, and with 2008 Zilliken will be seen to have made other changes in the lower half of his price list.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463

No fruit having come in below high-grade Spatlese must weight, Zilliken sacrificed only a small amount of raw material to inform a 2005 Riesling trocken. This wine is mineral from the word “go”, with wet stone aromatics, stony inflections to the wines juicy, cidery apple and cherry fruited palate, and a finish with palpable extract. More formidable than charming, it should prove versatile at the dinner table and gain in interest over the next couple of years. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463

The harvest here lasted until November 10, netting no fruit so exaggerated in ripeness as was that of 2003, but still none below Spatlese must weight. Some of that low-grade Spatlese informs Zilliken’s small batch of 2004 Riesling trocken, which smells alluringly of fresh apple, apple pit, flowers, and almonds, then comes to the palate invigoratingly salty, full of yellow plum, grapefruit, and apple. There is palpable density along with a subtle, lush sense of creaminess, yet none of that detracts from the wine’s lift, refreshment, and sheer infectiousness. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463