From two vineyards – one very steep – on the Bisamberg, Wieninger’s 2007 Riesling Riedencuvee offers juicy apple and lemon primary fruit, a hint of petrol which Wieninger (like many Alsace growers) attributes to chalky soils, and offers an invigorating and snappy finish. It will be lovely for drinking this summer as it already was last. Fritz Wieninger has been the prime dynamo behind whatever over-due recognition the wines of Vienna have garnered over the past decade, and I have been remiss in not visiting with him until last year – too early, unfortunately, to assess certain of the 2007s from his sprawling line-up of cuvees, so the selection below is limited wines that were bottled early, or that I had occasion to revisit. “We are warmer in Vienna than the Wachau or Kamptal,” Wieninger reminded me, “and we can’t wait to harvest our vineyards until November, unless of course we want 15 or 16% alcohol. We need lighter wines, and for that, we have to harvest much earlier – which is unfortunate at times, because aromas are significantly enhanced through later picking, a practice suited to our terroir.” Wieninger seems to have mastered the balancing act that corresponds to this paradox of optimal harvest dates. His lighter wines do not display any unripe flavors.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2001 Riesling Rieden Cuvee is a simple wine for kicking back in the summertime. The wine has yeast, white flower, and pear aromas. It is light-bodied and flavorful, offering citrus, quinine, mineral, and currants in its expressive character. Anticipated maturity: Now-2004.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700