Elegant and a bit reticent. Citrus, toast and strawberry fruit gradually emerge on the nose, paving the way for sour apple and lemon character in the mouth. The fine mousse has good persistence. Crisp, then turns almost tart on the medium finish. Can be drunk now but the razor-like acidity will soften with two to three years aging.——W.E.(12/31/2009)—— 87