There’s a very good wine in here, but the winery has released it far too early, which shifts the burden of cellaring to the buyer. Right now it’s all primary fruit, acidity and oak. But the fruit is beautifully layered in tiers of roasted blackberries, grilled cherries and cola, and the oak is splendid. This dry, silky wine desperately needs to be held until at least late 2010, and should drink well through 2014.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 92