This has been a great bottling from W.H. Smith, and it is the most interesting and complex of the winery’s current releases. Very dry, its elegantly silky structure frames intricate flavors of baked cherry, cherry skin, red currant, root beer, licorice and cedar, with an elaboration of Asian spices and a sprinkle of cocoa. Really fascinates as it changes in the glass, and best now and through 2013. ——S.H.(2/1/2009)—— 94