Bring on the tuna, either tartare or lightly grilled. This is the perfect wine. It’s bone dry, light and silky in the mouth, and crisp in acidity, a lovely, elegant Pinot Noir with modest alcohol that feels just fine. The flavors are of cherries, cola and pomegranates. Beautiful now, and should develop bottle complexity over the next six years. ——S.H.(12/31/2011)—— 93