The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air impresses for its super-refined personality. Freshly cut flowers, dark cherries, mint and spices are some of the many notes that float across the palate in this airy, delicate Gevrey. There is no heaviness at all. The Bel Air is vibrant and classy from start to finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. This is a very strong set of wines from Romain Taupenot. The 2009s are quite marked by the year. Today my preference is for the 2010s because the cooler year balanced some of the more overt, fruit-forward leanings that define the house style. Tasting all of the 2009s and 2010s together really brought the qualities of these two very different vintages into focus. Importers: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620, Imported by Scott Paul Wines, Carlton, OR; tel. (503) 852 7300; J.A.O. Wine Imports, McLean, VA; contact@jaowineimports.com