Lavau's 2017 Gigondas is only 50% Grenache, with 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. Partly aged in slightly used barrels, it offers up scents of scorched cedar but also blueberry and ripe stone fruit. Full-bodied and concentrated, with a coarse, open-knit texture and a long, chewy finish, it should drink well from 2020-2026.