The 2004 Pinot Grigio Dessimis is buried under a wall of toasted oak that obscures virtually all of the wine’s varietal character. That is a shame, because this rich, full-bodied Pinot Grigio is undoubtedly a well-made, stylish wine with significant potential. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2009. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411.

A beautifully executed wine, from its copper-tinged color to its opulent nose. Aromas drift off layer after layer, revealing banana bread, peach cobbler, almond paste and sliced pear. A solid and compact wine in the mouth that could match heavier foods such as crepes and souffles. Imported by Marc de Grazia Selections.——M.L.(6/1/2006)—— 90