The 2008 Pinot Grigio Dessimis is a huge departure from previous vintages. Talk about a wine that has completely been re-thought. For starters, the light pinkish hue is the result of a brief period of contact on the skins. Layers of sweet, perfumed fruit caress the palate as this silky, understated and totally classy Pinot Grigio opens up in the glass. The 2008 Dessimis shows exceptional balance and finesse, not to mention terrific personality. A final burst of red berries informs the long finish. Though delicious now, the Dessimis is an excellent choice for drinking as the weather warms up into the spring and summer. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. This is a beautiful set of wines from Vie di Romans and proprietor Gianfranco Gallo. Vintage 2008 wasn't easy, which makes these wines all the more commendable. At press time I was notified that the estate's importer would change with the 2009 vintage. Readers should be aware that Vie di Romans is owned by members of my wife's extended family. I have always viewed education as an important component of wine criticism. An article on Friuli without these wines would have been incomplete and ultimately the consumer would have been poorer for their exclusion. For those reasons I have chosen to include the wines in this report. Neither my wife nor I have any financial or other interest, direct or indirect, in this property. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200