An impressive effort is the 1998 Zinfandel Home Ranch, made from a vineyard first planted in 1895. This opaque ruby-colored effort offers sweet berry and cherry fruit on the attack, a touch of toasty new oak, medium to full body, and roasted herb, sweet strawberry and cherry jam-like flavors. Consume it over the next 4-5 years. Tel. (707) 433-3579

Good, bright, spicy fruit, with fine balance and a silky, extended finish. There’s lovely concentration in the back end, suggesting blackberries and loganberries and plenty of toast. ——P.G.(3/1/2001)—— 89