Leroy's 1997 Volnay Santenots is virtually black in color. Boasting a licorice and blackberry syrup-scented nose, this unbelievably massive, dense, and backward wine represents the essence of Pinot Noir. This hugely chewy, almost viscous, full-bodied offering is crammed with dates, figs, jellied black fruits, and sports a strong tannic structure. Readers who believe that Pinot Noirs are all about finesse will be blown away by the flavor intensity found in this blockbuster. Projected maturity: 2002-2010+. Importers: Martine's Wines, Inc., San Rafael, CA; tel (415) 485-1800, and Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL; tel (847) 604-8900.