From a property to which Leroy has only been applying her biodynamic brand of tough love since 1999, her 2005 Volnay Santenots du Milieu offers a vivid and intensely sweet aroma of black cherry liqueur tinged with cinnamon. But while the liqueur-like expression of fruit persists throughout, a fresh, juicy invigorating fruit character comes to its aid to prevent the wine’s becoming cloying. This Pinot displays in spades the proclivity of some of the best 2005s to combine the maximum concentration and richness of fruit compatible with refreshing juiciness and elegance. The amazingly pure, luscious finish – tinged with vanilla and nutmeg notes from the barrel – goes on and on. I suppose there could (and may well with time) be more complexity here, but the purity of fruit, uncanny balance and sheer length are enough to wow me. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400