The 2010 Petite Sirah Napa, a blend of 77% Petite Sirah, 12% Syrah, 6% Grenache and the rest Carignan, Mourvedre and Viognier, is widely available as there are nearly 20,000 cases. This beautiful effort exhibits notes of raspberries, black cherry liqueur, crushed rocks, blueberries and other black fruits. At this stage it is still very much a fruit bomb, but I think the inclusion of the other varietals has toned it down and made it more approachable than a 100% Petite Sirah would be. This is a fascinating, pure, impressive wine to enjoy over the next two to three decades.

The 2010 Petite Sirah Napa, a blend of 77% Petite Sirah, 12% Syrah, 6% Grenache and the rest Carignan, Mourvedre and Viognier, is widely available as there are nearly 20,000 cases. This beautiful effort exhibits notes of raspberries, black cherry liqueur, crushed rocks, blueberries and other black fruits. At this stage it is still very much a fruit bomb, but I think the inclusion of the other varietals has toned it down and made it more approachable than a 100% Petite Sirah would be. This is a fascinating, pure, impressive wine to enjoy over the next two to three decades. I have always thought of this winery as a Petite Sirah specialist, but they are now also producing cuvees of Cabernet Sauvignon, a proprietary red and a couple of Merlots. Stags Leap Winery first made its reputation with its Petite Sirahs, and they now offer two cuvees of California’s most underrated varietal. Tel. (800) 395-2441

This is a ripe, vigorous young Petite Sirah. It's strong in tannins, with just enough acidity to make the black currant, roasted meat, plum and cedar flavors bright. This needs time; give it 5–6 years, and it should glide through 2020.

If you're nostalgic for a time when Napa Valley was planted to petite sirah; when it offered reds that were savory and spicy rather than sweet; when you could afford to buy a Napa Valley red with the kind of complex herbal notes and layered tannic detail that would juice up roast lamb; well, that time is now. Decant a bottle and think, for a moment, that you're in southwest France.