The tightest, most structured and tannic of these Pinots, the 2004 Pinot Noir Rincon Vineyard (7,400 bottles produced), possesses good acidity, excellent tannin, a deep ruby color, and plenty of briery, berry fruit intermixed with hints of earth, forest floor, and background wood. It requires more introspection and patience than the other cuvees. Give it another 1-2 years of cellaring and consume it over the following decade. Tel. (805) 489-0446

I don’t think this is the greatest Rincon because the fruit was so ripe that it makes the resulting wine lose some finesse. Having said that, this is a delicious Pinot Noir. It’s so juicy in cherry, raspberry, cola and root beer flavors, with a gorgeous edge of vanilla-infused oak, and a classically silky texture. As good as it is, it just misses greatness. ——S.H.(6/1/2007)—— 91