The lower level wines of a grower's portfolio are often mean, nasty, and barely average in quality. That is not the case with this domaine. Moreover, Lignier's three village wines, Chambolle-Musigny, Morey St.-Denis, and Gevrey-Chambertin, are all among the finest village wines I have ever tasted. The Gevrey-Chambertin exhibits the earthy, smoky, cinnamon meatiness of the village. It is more concentrated than many grand crus from Gevrey-Chambertin, an appellation with too many underachieving vignerons. This wine will drink well for 5-6 years. Along with the wines from Domaine Leroy, Domaine Maurice and Claude Dugat, and Domaine Ponsot, the other unequivocal great successes in 1993 are the wines of Hubert Lignier. His wines are atypically super-concentrated, powerful, rich, sweet, expansive red Burgundies that exhibit the structure, but none of the harsh tannins of many 1993s. Moreover, they possess layers of highly extracted, rich, creamy fruit that could only have come from physiologically ripe grapes and low yields. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, New York, NY; tel. (212) 249-6650