Anyone who loves a great dry white made with Rhone varietals should check out the compelling 2003 The Contrarian (60% Roussanne and 40% Viognier). This wine went through 100% malolactic and was neither fined nor filtered. An extraordinary expression of these two varietals, it came across as a superb Austrian white combined with some of the petroleum-like notes found in Trimbach’s Riesling Clos Ste.-Hune from Alsace. It is an extraordinarily complex white with great delineation, tremendous liquid minerality, and notes of petrol, honeysuckle, ripe citrus, and a hint of tropical fruit. There is no obvious oak, and the finish lasts for over a minute. It is part of the increasing body of evidence that suggests truly magnificent dry whites can emerge from Rhone varietals in this sector of California. I do not know how long it will age, but who can resist it now? Consume it over the next 2-3 years. Readers take note, Linne Calodo is undeniably one of the emerging superstars of California’s Central Coast. Get on their mailing list as I doubt much of the production will make it to retailers’ shelves. Tel. (805) 227-0797