The 2004 The Contrarian is one of California’s most brilliant white Rhone Rangers. A blend of 62% Roussanne and 38% Viognier, it reveals a fabulous minerality reminiscent of a top-class white Hermitage. Powerful, potent, full-bodied flavors come across as relatively restrained and nuanced as opposed to gooey and over the top. White currant, licorice, acacia flower, honeysuckle, pineapple, and wet steel-like characteristics emerge from this elegant effort. Having gone through 100% malolactic, it possesses a gorgeously rich texture, tremendous length, and superb vibrancy as well as uplift. As I have written over the last several years, Linne Calodo is a name to take seriously as it represents a reference point for what can be achieved in California’s Central Coast. Tel. (805) 227-0797

This is a distinctive blend of Roussanne and Viognier. It’s impressively rich, offering up complex waves of kiwi, vanilla custard, white peach sorbet and white chocolate flavors. That makes it sound sweet, but it’s a dry wine. A little soft, but totally delicious. ——S.H.(10/1/2005)—— 92