The 2008 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso (Piedirosso) bursts from the glass with an intoxicating, heady array of bacon fat, smoke, tar, ash and dark red cherries. Despite its deceptive, mid-weight style, this dark brooding wine offers tons of complexity and personality. Though quite beautiful texturally, the strong aromas and flavors might not be for everyone, but paired with the right foods – such as grilled meats – the wine should drink beautifully. This is a gem from Mastroberardino. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. This is an impressive set of entry-level wines from Mastroberardino, an estate that in recent years has begun to recapture some of its past glory. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620