One of the many great values in the collection, the 2011 Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Rosso is a beautiful unoaked red that highlights the distinctive personality of Piedirosso, an indigenous red grape that continues to show its pedigree and potential. Smoke, bacon fat, incense and licorice are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. Elements of wildness add intrigue and complexity over time. The 2011 offers serious quality and sheer personality for the money Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Mastroberardino is another winery that seems to have found an extra gear or two over the last few years. The Taurasis remain the flagships, but readers should also pay close attention to the entry-level reds and the best whites in this range. All of the wines are deeply varietal, making Mastroberardino a perfect place to start learning about the great wines of Campania. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620