Readers looking for more Meursault-like, roasted hazelnut, smokiness, tropical fruit and a leesy note to its medium to full-bodied, chunky, richly fruity style should check out the 2002 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch. An elegant example of this cuvee, but still typically California, it will drink well for 3-4 years. (Not yet released)Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709