Clarendon Hills’ Merlot can be very interesting. Their 2004 Merlot Brookman Vineyard, while displaying a certain herbal character, offers gorgeous layers of white chocolate, sweet black cherries, and a hint of espresso roast. With terrific fruit, an opulent texture, and a fleshy, up-front style, it is best consumed over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Wine Brokers Unlimited, tel. (866) 416-9463

Perennially one of Australia’s best Merlots, the 2004 version “shows the cool season,” according to winemaker Roman Bratasiuk. Dried herbs and tobacco blend into pepper and cassis flavors. The tannins are supple, gradually fading on the finish into a smooth stream of mocha. Drink now–2012. ——J.C.(12/15/2006)—— 90