Beno?t Riffault's 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Village is already open and expressive on the nose, wafting from the glass with aromas of ripe lemons, Anjou pear, nutmeg, dried white flowers and warm bread. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and fleshy, with a satiny attack, excellent amplitude and concentration at the core, ripe acids and a long, expansive finish. This is quite a powerful example of the vintage, but don't let its youthful precocity deceive, as it has the structure and substance to evolve gracefully in the cellar.