The 2000 Il Girone is, surprisingly for this latitude, a Pinot Noir, and the berry fruit, the balsamic and leather notes, and the silky texture are authentically Pinot, though fuller and more alcoholic than examples from cool climate regions. A wine of character, released only in favorable years (the last previous vintage was 1996) and a medium ager. Boccadigabbia proved two important points in the 1990s. First, that superior wine can be produced in non-tradition areas of the Marches. Second, that a series of non-traditional grapes could also adapt themselves to the local climate and soil. In terms of the sheer variety of high class wines, this is the leading estate in the region and seems fully prepared to compete in a future which promises significantly more competition. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411