The 2008 Syrah Kobler Vineyard (includes 8% co-fermented Viognier and 100% whole clusters) exhibits exotic, floral, Cote Rotie-like aromas with more raspberry and black cherry characteristics intermixed with the Viognier’s spring flower garden scents. Medium to full-bodied, savory and fleshy with considerable complexity, this delicious 2008 should drink well for a decade or more. This is a fascinating group of wines from extremely cool climate Sonoma sites made by proprietor Joe Donelan and his winemaker, Tyler Thomas. They have produced an exceptionally elegant portfolio of 2009s that is true to the character of this cooler than normal vintage. This winery, which was originally known as Pax Cellars, has always produced remarkable Syrahs and the early vintages are aging fabulously well.Tel. (707) 592-0782; Fax (707) 591-0784

A tough, tannic young wine that will benefit from two or three years in the bottle, but probably no more. It’s bone dry and astringent now, with an intense core of blackberries, grilled meat and black pepper. Give it a few hours in a decanter before pouring.——S.H.(6/1/2011)—— 90