Sweet red berries, mint, freshly cut roses, spices and licorice are some of the notes that emerge from the 2010 Syrah Kobler Family Vineyard. Silky tannins frame the fruit through to the elegant, polished finish, where high-toned floral notes resonate beautifully. The 2010 Kobler impresses for its refined personality. Winemaker Tyler Thomas used 40% whole clusters and added 2% Viognier to the Syrah. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. Proprietor Joe Donelan and his winemaker Tyler Thomas share a passion for cool-climate marginal sites. Given the focus on sourcing from top vineyards, it is hardly a surprise that the vineyard-designates are the most exciting wines in this lineup. I have a harder time finding the same level of enthusiasm for the winery’s numerous blended cuvees, but these are all excellent to outstanding wines that merit serious attention.Tel. (707) 592-0782; www.donelanwines.com