The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard, from a steep hillside site in the low end of the Vaca mountains, across from Rudd Vineyards and Screaming Eagle, boasts an inky/purple color along with remarkably sweet tannins, especially for Backus, which tends to be a forbiddingly backward style of Cabernet. It possesses broad, expansive flavors, an opulent, full-bodied palate and unreal length. One of the superstars of the vintage, it can be enjoyed over the next 20 years. Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831

A deep, rich, profound Cabernet, with ripe, plush currant, black cherry and ripe plum fruit that's well-focused, supple and harmonious. This is intense and powerful, yet elegant and refined, with amazing structure, depth and length. Best from 2008 through 2017. 1,500 cases made. -JL

It’s impossible for a Cabernet to be richer, more opulent or more hedonistically stunning on opening than this beauty from veteran Phelps. Admittedly, there are significant tannins. But the wine delivers a broadside of the sweetest, ripest cassis fruit imaginable, along with richly toasted oak. It’s the kind of Cab that will dazzle even an amateur. Absolutely gorgeous now, with immaculate elegance. About the only criticism you can offer is that the structure is a bit obvious, and ageability may be limited.——S.H.(2/1/2008)—— 95