In this vintage the 2008 Chardonnay Oliver's Vineyard comes across as beautifully layered in its expressive, ripe fruit. Clean mineral notes provide the backdrop for this gorgeous, persistent Chardonnay to show off its pedigree. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Brian Talley doesn’t miss a beat. This is an impressive set of wines from top to bottom. In general, I have a slight preference for the 2008 Chardonnays over the 2009s, as I find the earlier vintage shows more delineation and finesse. Readers who prefer a bold, overt style of Chardonnay may find more immediate pleasure in the 2009s. The Chardonnays were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on their lees in 30% new oak. The 2008 Pinots are terrific, but they need quite a bit of air to show their best. The Pinots were fermented in open top fermenters, using native yeasts, and aged in barrel for 18-19 months. Talley used 30-35% new oak for the Pinots. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Pinots, which had just been bottled. Tel. (805) 489-0446; www.talleyvineyards.com

A deliciously savory wine, brisk in lip-smacking acidity, with the strong, pure flavors of limes, Meyer lemons and kiwi fruits that mark this cool climate region of San Luis Obispo County. Pretty much as good as Edna Valley Chardonnay gets. Drink now.——S.H.(4/1/2011)—— 90