The 2009 Chardonnay Oliver's Vineyard possesses excellent depth and nuance in its fruit, although it comes across as a touch heavy with less overall complexity next to the 2008 tasted alongside it. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Brian Talley doesn’t miss a beat. This is an impressive set of wines from top to bottom. In general, I have a slight preference for the 2008 Chardonnays over the 2009s, as I find the earlier vintage shows more delineation and finesse. Readers who prefer a bold, overt style of Chardonnay may find more immediate pleasure in the 2009s. The Chardonnays were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on their lees in 30% new oak. The 2008 Pinots are terrific, but they need quite a bit of air to show their best. The Pinots were fermented in open top fermenters, using native yeasts, and aged in barrel for 18-19 months. Talley used 30-35% new oak for the Pinots. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Pinots, which had just been bottled.Tel. (805) 489-0446; www.talleyvineyards.com

A gorgeous Chardonnay, so dry and crisp, it makes the mouth water, yet so rich it dazzles. Shows waves of tangerine, apricot and lime flavors, liberally oaked, accompanied by vibrant acidity and the perfect touch of softening cream from lees aging. Drink now.——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 93