The inky/blue/purple-hued 2004 Syrah Williamson Dore Vineyard boasts classic southern France-like notes of roasted herbs, sweet and sour cherries, blackberries, loamy soil, pepper, and incense. It is full-bodied and superbly concentrated, with great intensity, moderately high tannin, and enough glycerin, flavor, and fruit to back up its impressive structure. It should drink well for a decade or more.Tel. (805) 937-4251

Lush tannins, ripe cassis, plum and espresso flavors, and nicely dry. The problem is a prickly heat throughout. Even for someone who isn’t particularly bothered by high alcohol, it’s hard to get past. ——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 85