The 2008 Collio Ribolla Gialla is a fabulous example of the orange school of winemaking that has taken off with such verve. Ribolla Gialla is indeed the protagonist of this movement because of the variety’s ability to take on oxidative tones that develop with complexity as the wine macerates, in this case for two months. It offers very little in terms of fruit aromas. Instead, you get dried apricot, brown sugar and butterscotch. In the mouth, the wine drinks more like a red than a white wine. It shows rich texture and a hint of tannic structure that suggests a pairing with honey roasted ham or pork stuffed with sweet prunes. A fine mineral tone wraps around the long finish. Drink: 2014-2022. Stefano Bensa and his family have produced a strong set of new releases from their estate in the Oslavia subzone of the Collio. These are true protagonists of the ViniVeri or “natural” wine movement that enjoys such an important foothold in this remote corner of northeast Italy. We call them “Orange Wines,” and although they won’t appeal to all consumers, the high quality presented here makes a strong case that this unusual subset should not be dismissed as a faddish winemaking whim. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, www.domaineselect.com