The 2005 Barolo Rocche is the most finely detailed and nuanced of these 2005 Barolos. The wine reveals spectacular richness and clarity as layers of sweet perfumed fruit, menthol and spices emerge from the glass. The Rocche is an especially complex, multi-dimensional wine with tons of fruit and simply incredible balance. While this is easily one of the finest Barolos in 2005, the wine also appears to need at least a few years of bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2035. Vietti has long been an elite, reference-point producer in Piedmont but in recent years brothers-in-law Luca Currado and Mario Cordero have taken major steps to further elevate the quality of their wines across the board. My tasting with Luca Currado encompassed 20-plus Barolos covering vintages 2005 through 2008, including multiple parcels the estate uses for its multi-vineyard Barolo Castiglione. All of the wines were potentially outstanding and some will doubtless turn out to be profound. Vietti fans have much to look forward to in coming years, the biggest decision here will be making choices among a large number of truly special wines. For starters, the 2005s aren’t too far behind the spectacular 2004s. Unfortunately there will be no Barolo Riserva Villero as the vineyard was damaged by hail. The Barolos are fermented in stainless steel, then racked into French oak barriques for the malolactic fermentations. The wines are then moved into Slavonian oak casks where they complete their aging. Over the last few years Currado has gradually lengthened maceration times and taken a more moderate approach to French oak, while limiting yields dramatically, all of which has resulted in an extremely consistent set of Barolos that are easily among the region’s finest. As an aside, long-time visitors to the property will be happy to learn that a much needed renovation to the tasting room is complete. The new facility is strikingly beautiful. Importer: Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2204

Offers Christmas pudding, currant and other dried fruit. Full-bodied, with amazing concentration of ripe fruit and chewy tannins. Yet it's all in balance. Monumental. Best after 2014. 300 cases made, 90 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Closed, but evidently big and well-structured, with a persistent leathery finish; should be fine with a little rest.

Rocche is a standout wine that offers just about everything you look for in an excellent Barolo. There’s power, complexity and personality here that is enhanced by lusciously intense aromas of chocolate, allspice, blackberry, licorice and cola. It’s a beautifully healthy wine with a bright color, bold extraction, a soft finish and direct delivery. Drink in 5–10 years.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 95