The 2002 Riesling Heiligenstein has been re-released. When I first reviewed this wine in 2003, I picked it as “probably a late bloomer.” Now you can really smell the flowers. On the palate, this is clear and juicy, frisky in its interplay of fruit and mineral, and seemingly just hitting its stride. Ester-like floral notes generate a lovely sense of sweetness. It’s nice to know – in infant-wine-drinking Austria of all places – that the value of halfway mature wine is recognized, at least to the extent of permitting American consumers an opportunity to enjoy these in restaurants and – as in this instance – to fearlessly sock bottles away for a few more years. Also reviewed 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen ($21.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang ($16.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben ($42.00; 86+?), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg ($62.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen ($23.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinmassel ($30.00; 86), 2003 St. Laurent Ladner (unknown; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300