Brundlmayer’s 2005 Riesling Heiligenstein offers lovely scents of licorice, brown spices, and flowers, comes to the palate satisfyingly juicy and with abundant inner-mouth florality, then picks up a peachy, honeyed character (signaling a bit of botrytis) that persists along with flowers and faintly sizzling minerality. Also reviewed 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kamptaler Terrassen ($21.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Berg Vogelsang ($16.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben ($42.00; 86+?), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg ($62.00; 86), 2005 Riesling Kamptaler Terrassen ($23.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinmassel ($30.00; 86), 2003 St. Laurent Ladner (unknown; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A very intense, full-flavored wine, with structure and minerality the dominant characteristics. There’s certainly acidity in this youthful wine, but it is the intensity of flavors that will eventually—give it four years—shine through.——R.V.(10/1/2006)—— 93