A stunning wine, Selbach's 2001 Riesling Auslese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr** is a study in power, concentration, and intensity. "It tastes just like the finest 1976s did when they were young," said Terry Theise, the estate's importer. Sweet aromas of onions long caramelized in butter, almonds, poached pears, candied apples, Margarita mix, and currants can be found in this beauty's glorious nose. Broad-shouldered, massive, and bulky, it dares the taster to penetrate its dense mass. Smoky notes of botrytis, melons, crisp pears, caramel-covered apples, and a vibrant punch of lemon are found in its thick, yet well-balanced core. Not for the faint at heart, this wine combines the weight of a Beerenauslese with the zest of a Spatlese. Projected maturity: 2010-2030. Johannes Selbach, this estate's winemaker and director (as well as Terry Theise's man-on-the-ground in Germany) is on fire. His wines are top flight and yet his winemaking appears to be improving with each vintage. Readers should note that Selbach's wines typically appear substantially better after a few years of cellaring. I've tried to compensate for that by inserting plus (+) signs by those wines that have the most chance of improving significantly over time.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

There can be no doubting the power, depth and concentration in Selbach-Oster's 2001 Riesling Auslese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr* yet it lacks harmonious character. Botrytised minerals, a myriad of spices, and Japanese melon can be discerned in its aromatics. Medium-bodied and dense, it is lush, thick, satin-textured, and crammed with cinnamon and smoke-laced white fruits. If this wine's personality gains focus with cellaring, my score will appear conservative. Projected maturity: 2006-2018. Johannes Selbach, this estate's winemaker and director (as well as Terry Theise's man-on-the-ground in Germany) is on fire. His wines are top flight and yet his winemaking appears to be improving with each vintage. Readers should note that Selbach's wines typically appear substantially better after a few years of cellaring. I've tried to compensate for that by inserting plus (+) signs by those wines that have the most chance of improving significantly over time.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The orange, honey and vivid structure suggest some botrytis here, highlighting the apricot and mineral notes. Racy in style and concentrated, but rich and needing time to integrate all its elements. Drink now through 2015.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add

As it should be, this wine is riper-tasting than Selbach-Oster’s one-star spatlese, but not any better from a qualitative perspective. It shows more yellow plum aromatics and features a lush mouthfeel that partially masks a steel backbone of acidity. Expect this to close down for a few years before blossoming around age eight. —J.C. ——J.C.(3/1/2003)—— 91