Selbach's 2005 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is dominated in the nose and mouth by apple, nut oils, and vanilla, with a vividly creamy texture that fits its sweet, low-toned flavors. Notes of pineapple, brown spices, and flowers emerge with airing. The long and involved finish preserves both the sense of creaminess and an exuberant juiciness, behaving a bit like pineapple-studded nougat in an apple juice matrix, with accents of flowers, salt, and wet stones. This exhibits less sheer intensity than the corresponding Schlossberg, but with more polish and refinement. Either one of these masterful portraits of great sites should reward up to 30 years in one's cellar.
“For me, 2005 is a singular vintage in my career,” says Johannes Selbach, “in that it is ripe, multi-faceted, and has excellent acidity. You can pick any of the other recent classics – 1975, 1990 ... . Each of the benchmark years is great in its way, however here you have a combination that is fun to drink now, ten years from now, and in thirty years as well. It remains to be seen, but I think 2005 is in another league.” Readers will indeed be hard pressed this year to find another address with this many consistently outstanding wines, and when has there ever been a more diverse and at the same time magnificent array of Auslesen? In their upper reaches, the Selbach 2005s seem – like Zilliken's, but in their own unique way – to chart a trajectory beyond the normal course for their vintage. The harvest here extended from mid-October to mid-November.
Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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