There is not a great deal of dolcetto grown in the Northwest, but this is the best version I’ve yet seen. Its vivid, spicy fruit core expresses the soil, the plant and the grape in equal proportion. Sappy flavors of spiced plum and wild berry hold the fort; it’s built like a race car, sleek and stylish, with a powerful, tannic frame.——P.G.(2/1/2005)—— 88