A high-water mark for Jean Leon, which usually sticks to varietal wines. Zemis, on the other hand, is a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Cab Franc that makes its point. After a tight, bruising, sulfuric beginning, the wine finds its groove, showing black cherry, plum and earth flavors. Thorough and rewarding; a fine red from Penedes. ——M.S.(6/1/2005)—— 91