The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les St. Georges reveals gorgeous delineation to balance its rich, intense fruit. From a structural standpoint it is the most inward and reticent of the 2009s I tasted from bottle. There is plenty to admire here, including a textured finish that is incredibly appealing. 2019-2029. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les St. Georges seems to bring all of the best elements of the vintage and the house style together. It is a dark, sensual wine with gorgeous baritone depth to the fruit. The St. Georges takes shape beautifully in the glass, showing endless layers of definition. Sweet floral, mentholated notes appear later, as the wine’s more delicate side emerges. Still, the St. Georges remains a bit of a brute for now. It, too, will require considerable patience. Those who can wait will be treated to an extraordinary Burgundy. Tasted from tank. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2044. This is a striking set of 2009s from Gouges. The estate is pursuing a slightly updated style in trying to make the entry-level wines more accessible early on. According to Gregoire Gouges the approach to the higher end wines remains the same, which is to say these remain sturdy Burgundies that benefit immensely from cellaring. The harvest at Gouges began on September 15. The fruit was 100% destemmed. Vinification started with a 3 day cold soak (at only modestly cold temperatures) followed by 10-15 days of cuvaison. The wines were racked after the malos, the lees were removed, and the wines were put back into barrel, where they finished (or were finishing) their elevage. All of the wines were aged in 20% new oak barrels.Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Ripe, precise, stylish red fruits nose. The palate is different, dense and full-bodied, with depth and grip. Very tannic now, with moderate acidity and quite good length.