Produced from yields below 40 hectoliters/hectare (admirable for 1996), the Volnay Taillepieds exhibits beguiling aromas of black cherries, blackberries, and spices. On the palate, this complex, concentrated, and extracted wine is beautifully refined, sumptuous, yet structured. It is expansive, broad, medium-to-full-bodied, and packed with juicy cassis and blueberries. This well-balanced and fruit-driven wine has an admirably persistent finish which displays loads of ripe tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2006. The score, on a range and in parentheses, indicates that the wine was tasted from barrel. Jacques, Marquis d'Angerville produced stupendous wines in 1996. When we met in mid-November, just a few weeks after the unexpected death of Gerard Potel of Domaine de la Pousse d'Or fame, d'Angerville seemed to be emotionally torn by his excitement over the "excellent millesime" and the sorrow he felt over the loss of his friend and colleague. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.