I loved the plummy, red cherry syrup-scented nose of the medium to dark ruby-colored 2003 Volnay Taillepieds (red). This forward, hugely expressive wine broadens on the palate to display gloriously sweet cherries, licorice, blueberries, and plums. Exquisitely ripe and fresh, it is medium-bodied, satin-textured, and possesses a lengthy finish that reveals additional layers of fruit as well as copious quantities of ripe tannin. My sense is that this wine will shut down after bottling before returning with a vengeance. Drink it between 2010 and 2020. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company., New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400