At four years of age, this Pinot is just hitting its stride. It has a youthful side in the still fresh cherry and raspberry fruit and vibrant acidity. But it’s turning mellow, as the oak melts into the alcohol, lending a soft, creamy infusion of vanilla bean. It’s so good now, it will be hard to keep your hands off it, but it should hold for another three to five years. ——S.H.(12/15/2005)—— 95