With Pinot Noir, the magic trick is to have it taste sweet and ripe, and yet to finish bone dry. Few wineries in California accomplish this as regularly as Hanzell, and here they come again, with this wonderful 2008. It’s entirely consistent with their past history, being dry, a little tannic and tantalizingly rich in cherry, raspberry and cola fruit. Enjoyable now, with decanting, and should develop in the cellar over the next dozen years if not longer, based on the winery’s track record. ——S.H.(2/1/2012)—— 94