The 2006 Calderara Sottana, once the estate’s entry-level wine, is now itself a selection of the best fruit and oldest vines from the heart of the Calderara vineyard, while the rest of the fruit from Calderara now goes into the Rosso. This utterly engaging wine offers up dark cherries, spices and sweet herbs in a style that brings to mind the Nebbiolos of northern Piedmont. There is a lovely density here despite the wine’s medium-bodied frame. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. This lineup from Tenuta delle Terre Nere is one of the most impressive I tasted. Brothers Marc and Iano De Grazia seem to be hitting their stride with these new releases. The wines show great balance and tons of expressiveness, something that is enhanced by an enlightened use of French oak. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Pretty, floral and sweet aromas of blue flower and forest floor are doled out in a very controlled and feminine manner. The wine is elegant and refined and shares many of the same characteristics that you would find in a top-rated Pinot Noir.——M.L.(3/1/2009)—— 91