The 2010 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana is a lovely introduction to the vintage at Terre Nere. Pine, menthol, red cherries and wild flowers all take shape in the glass. Firm tannins provide the backbone in this finely sculpted, chiseled Nerello Mascalese. Savory notes reappear to frame the bright, high-toned finish. If opened today, the 2010 will benefit from a few hours of air. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. The Etna boasts two reference point producers and a number of emerging growers. Along with Andrea Franchetti, proprietor Marco de Grazia continues to make compelling wines that set the standard for the Etna. De Grazia’s 2010s are a bit more ethereal than the 2009s, which have a little more mid-palate depth, but also a bit less finesse in my view. Both vintages have their strengths. I followed these wines over the greater part of a day and can report they perform best with 4-6 hours of aeration. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887