Deep and incisive, two years of slow barrique aging create rich toasted notes such as charcoal, cigar box, licorice and vanilla although, thankfully, enough room is left for fresh cherry and berry fruit flavors. The wine is 95 percent Sangiovese with a small component of Merlot for softness: A brawny, oak-powered wine best enjoyed now. ——M.L.(2/1/2007)—— 88