The reds lead off with the 2004 Merlot Grand Estates. Dark ruby in color, it has a smoky perfume with aromas of cassis, red currants, and plums. On the palate, the wine is firm with attractive, spicy red fruit flavors, light tannin and good balance. Drink this bargain-priced Merlot over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

Roughly 140,000 cases were produced, making this (along with the Two Vines) the benchmark budget Merlot for the state, if not the country. These wines are given plenty of cellaring, which helps to soften them up. The style is wide open and flavorful, with broad cherry and berry fruit set against very smooth, chocolatey tannins. The Grand Estates has thicker, more substantial weight and a silky, milk chocolatey finish. ——P.G.(8/1/2007)—— 88