The 2007 Merlot Grand Estates has some Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. It was aged for 14-16 months in 25% new French and American oak. Dark ruby-colored, it displays aromas of cedar, spice box, violets, and black currant. Slightly narrow on the palate with a firm finish, it still delivers plenty of value for the money. Drink it over the next 6 years. Columbia Crest, part of the Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, is Washington’s largest winery. It produces mammoth amounts of wine (2,000,000+ cases) at a remarkably high level of quality. A visit to the cellars reveals brilliant organization, high morale, and a sense of personal involvement by the staff that undoubtedly adds value to the finished wine. Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

The Grand Estates Merlot holds center court in the vast Columbia Crest portfolio. This new release, which has received extra bottle age, is seamless, smoky, supple and seductive. Exotic sandalwood and Asian spices weave from the nose into the palate, wrapped around broad black cherry and blackberry fruit flavors. A darker streak of black olive and licorice runs into a finish replete with tannins that are tight and hint at stem. ——P.G.(12/31/2010)—— 88