The 2003 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte (domaine-white) – produced from a parcel located next to the refurbished vineyard-worker’s hut easily spotted over Montrachet – soars from the glass with sappy mineral richness. Substantially better than this firm’s regular Chevalier-Montrachet bottling, it is medium-bodied, broad, and fleshy. This well-balanced offering has outstanding depth, power, and length. Its concentrated core of fruit coats the palate with liquefied minerals, toast, fresh herbs (sage and thyme), as well as pears. This wine stood in such sharp contrast to everything else I had tasted at Bouchard that I was awestruck. Projected maturity: 2007-2015. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575